Tonight, Eric and Macon helped Jed fix dinner so Jed could earn a
Y-Guides badge. Jed whipped up a semi-traditional meal of collards,
hoppin' john (albeit made with a variety of beans rather than
black-eyed peas), and country ham on biscuits.
Now, at our house, the chef is usually excused from clean-up
duties, so I was in the kitchen washing up and packing up leftovers
when I got to the ham. Aaahh.The Ham. This was no honey ham. This was
real ham. The ham of hams. A ham's ham: it was a Virginia ham. A
salty little gem that one of our neighbors brought us on Christmas
Day.
I was delighted to receive it because it happens that a Virginia
ham was a staple of my childhood holiday family meals on the Woodard side. I enjoyed it
tremendously tonight and after dinner, I started to just wrap up the
remaining hunk, but Eric suggested slicing it first, so while the
boys took off, I started slicing it as thinly as I could, piling it
onto a piece of tinfoil.
Well, the smell that wafted up, that perfect smokey, salty, hammy
smell, took me straight to Be's kitchen in Conway. She
always served a salty Virginia ham at her holiday meals and at the
end of the evening, there would always be someone bent over a greasy
cutting board, loading up a piece of (previously used and washed)
tinfoil with ham.
I closed my eyes and I was right there in Be's kitchen with the
wall-mounted rocket-ship ice crusher and the wallpaper covered with
fruits and vegetables, under the fluorescent light, pestering her,
Aunt Phyllis, and Mama to finish the clean-up so we could open
Christmas presents. I could see it all like I'd just walked out her
back door: the plastic tub of slush with an ice pick stuck in it,
Jello salad, green water glasses that looked like they were made of
little bricks, vinegary collards, and aprons for anyone in the
kitchen.
Our meals and gatherings are not the same. They can't be and they
shouldn't be, but I hope the boys will have memories that are as
vivid and visceral and warm as mine are.
Happy New Year. Ambrosia, anyone?